Caring for your Siberian

Picking up your new kitten!

This page is here to provide information on how to care for your Siberian kitten! On this page, I talk about feeding, socializing, litter, traveling, and different tips & tricks to help your kitten acclimate to your home.

IMPORTANT! Your kitten has been given an FVRCP intranasal vaccine that does NOT contain an ADJUVANT that can cause cancer. No booster is needed as per the label instructions. However, because of the information in the article below, I recommend 1 booster of NON-AJUVANTED injectable FVRCP vaccine when you spay/neuter your kitten. And I NEVER get Leukemia Vaccines! Please call me with any questions. As Dr. Pierson says below…No Vaccines, only Micro Chip is injected in the shoulder blades!

For the information regarding vaccines, be sure to READ this article, Vaccines for Cats: We Need to Stop Overvaccinating, by Dr. Lisa A. Pierson, DVM.

Update from the video: I have not been able to provide carriers anymore due to supply issues. But I do have a link to the carriers I have gotten from Chewy that only cost about $24. But worth at least $40-$50. I used them for international travel as well and they extremely reliable and well made. I try purchase a couple to have on hand incase someone is not able to get one in time for pick up.

Socializing, Nail Clipping, and Acclimating an Older Kitten in a New Home

Here’s a video of me socializing with and clipping the nail of one of my little girl kittens.

Remember, never play with your kitten with your hands!

New owners often ask what they should have ready for their new kitten. Here’s a video of me going over it!

Scratching Posts

You will find that some cats like vertical scratching posts, some like horizontal. You can find a happy medium by taking a 2x4 on a platform at a 45 degree angle with another piece of 2x4 as a support at the high end. You can cover it with a carpet sample attached with zip ties. If it becomes frayed, just cut the zip ties and put a fresh new carpet square on it. You can put the carpet on with the jute side facing out if you prefer. They also have the cardboard scratchers for about $3-$5 you can purchase while you shop for the perfect scratching pad.

Feeding

We feed Life's Abundance® dry food. It is shipped directly to our home. It costs less with auto-ship, which can be updated or cancelled at anytime (with shipping intervals from every 2 wks to every 11 mos). Life's Abundance® Kitten/Cat Formula has no corn or corn gluten, no wheat or wheat gluten, no artificial flavors or colors and is made with chicken and catfish meals.
All my cats and kittens are fed, All Stages Life's Abundance. I do not buy the grain-free formula.

Click here to go to their website and order.

I have bottled or purified water and Life’s Abundance dry food available 24/7 for my cats and kittens. Cats love to drink out of the faucet. It's quite smart since moving water is usually clean, safe water. Fountains are a great way to help ensure your cat drinks enough water. Especially critical for male cats. The Catit fountain is very economical and works great. However I especially like the stainless steel model.

All my cats & kittens are raised getting this Braggs Organic Apple Cider Vinegar mixture 1/day. (also available at Walmart etc. $7 for 32oz). The vinegar is critical to help prevent urinary issues, (esp. with males). I had a male who was completely blocked, unable to urinate. I gave him 1.5cc vinegar with 1.5cc water every 2 hours and he was able to urinate normally by the 3rd dose. Since I began feeding with vinegar, I have never had any issues with any cats. Everyone can benefit from some of this vinegar daily.

Apple Cider Vinegar & NuVet Vitamins

Mixture Instructions

Adult Cat

The important ingredients are vinegar and vitamins. Ideally give this mixture once per day.

1) Fill one capful (1 tsp.) of Braggs Apple Cider Vinegar, be sure to shake the bottle well.

2) Mix with 1/8-1/3 cup of water. Stir well.

3) Add NuVet Vitamin powder.

4) Add in 1/4- 1/3 can of fancy feast. I use the fancy feast as a medium for the cider vinegar and vitamins. Mix well.

Kitten

For your new kitten: I would cut these amounts in 1/4 or (1/2 and refrigerate any uneaten food). I feed an entire litter at a time, so I don’t exactly know the quantities needed for one, but this is my estimate, and it seems to be the correct consistency. The goal is to work up to the capful of vinegar gradually while your kitten is growing.

1) 1/4 teaspoon Braggs Apple Cider Vinegar, be sure to shake the bottle well.

2) Mix with 2 tablespoons of water. Stir well.

3) Add NuVet Vitamin Powder, (1/4 adult portion) Stir well.

4) Add in 1/8 can of Fancy Feast. Use a butter knife to easily divide portions! Mix well.

The goal is to get the vinegar and vitamins into your kitten/cat and increase fluid intake. If your cat will not drink or eat this mixture, you may want to add more wet food.

NOTE: If you have a male cat/kitten who will not eat or drink the vinegar mixture, I would suggest adding Hills Urinary Hairball Control Savory Chicken Entree- I get the 5.5 oz cans.

A raw diet is the very best way to feed a cat. Unlike other animals, cats are obligate carnivores and would do best to eat whole animals, such as mice, rabbit, etc. The internal organs, bones, et. all, are necessary to thrive. You must be very careful feeding raw, and unless you buy a raw diet, supplements will need to be added. If you decide to change foods, be sure to do it gradually, and always get very high-quality food. Inexpensive food can not contain the meat necessary to keep your kitten healthy. Pet foods that say "with chicken/beef" etc, are only required to contain 3% of said meat. Do your research before buying!


Bottled Water vs. Water Treatment System for your drinking water

(For your family and your precious pets)

The average person drinks 8 cups of water per day (½ gallon per day) = 183 gallons per year.

Family of 4 = 732 gallons per year. (At 1 gallon per person, per day (family of 4), it is 1464 gallons per year. Just over the 1320 gallons for 1 filter. )

$1404 eSpring Below Counter with Designer Faucet Kit (with the cost of the system) you would be paying only $1.06 per gallon for the first 1320 gallons. After that…

With the eSpring Replacement Filter $259, You are now paying under $.20 per gallon,

$1179 eSpring Above Counter System.

In addition to dramatically improving taste, odor, and clarity, this system effectively reduces more than 140 potential health-effect contaminants that may be present in drinking water. No other system is documented to effectively reduce as wide a range of contaminants. The UV and carbon-filter technology, means that the unit effectively reduces more than 140 potential health-effect contaminants, including:

• Lead, mercury, MTBE, and over 40 endocrine disruptors.
• More than 13 disinfection by-products.
• Radon and radon decay by-products.
• 30 pesticides and pesticide by-products.

  • Two pharmaceutical impurities (17 alpha-ethinyl estradiol [EE2] and atenolol)

    *When you use the QR and type eSpring, you can access the 18 page pdf of the removed contaminants list.

Traveling with your Siberian

When training your Siberian to be outside with you, there are a few key things to note. You should think of your Siberian more like a small dog.

Domestic cats are very attached to their environment, so the kindest thing is to let them stay in their home and have someone take care of them where they feel safe. Siberians are attached to people much more than any environment. For this reason, they travel and relocate very well. They are extremely trusting of you and will do anything you encourage them to do. If you’re going to be gone for an extended period, you need to pack your Siberians up and take them to a relative or friend’s house. Or you will need to have someone live at your house with them while you are gone. Siberians don’t do well without human interaction, and they’ll be happy with another person while you’re gone.

Your Siberian can also travel with you. You should get a collar and leash. I recommend the Circle T rolled Leather Collar 10". I also highly suggest that you put a small piece of electrical tape, or the like, around the clasp connecting the leash to the collar so that someone doesn’t inadvertently take off the leash and leave the collar on. Cats climb, unlike dogs, so they can get a collar caught on something, which could be disastrous. Be sure to take your Siberian in the car when you can.

Remember! Whenever you leave your kitten in the car, make sure the AC or heat is running depending on the weather! Also, be sure to put your cat in their carrier so they don’t open the windows.

You should never allow your Siberian to walk out of the house. This could teach them it’s okay to leave the house without you. Instead, leash them and pick them up, or crate them while travelling from the house to the car.

I use Tidy Cat Yellow Bin with a Red Lid for the litter box as it is readily available at Walmart, Target or Chewy for approx. $15 - 35#bin, or $9 for the 20# jug. I suggest having a main litter box located in a very convenient place for your new kitten that you will gradually migrate to a spot that is good for your household. And you should actually have one more litter box than the number of cats. Some cats do not want to poo and pee in the same box (they are very clean). It doesn’t mean more cleaning, but it could make it easier since the wet clumps are less likely to be broken up while digging to use the box.

Since Siberians are so curious, they can get locked into rooms, closets etc.., I tell my new kitten owners that it is a good idea to go to Dollar Tree to get the little $1 dish pans and fill them with about an inch of litter for those extra rooms (or walk-in closet) in case your new kitten explores and gets trapped, then they at least have a place to go. In bedrooms, you could slide them right under the bed.

I use a mini dustpan that does not have a rubber edge to clean out the wet clumps on the bottom of the litter pan. Tipping the pan very carefully to the side you expose the clumped wet litter. Very carefully scrape it up with the dust pan. Then tip it in each of the 4 directions, getting any wet litter stuck to the bottom. THEN use the litter scoop to remove the kitty poops. If you are "neurotic" about not breaking up the clumps, you will have no cat box odor in your home. If I disturb some of the wet litter when I am tipping the box, I will use the mini broom to brush any wet litter into the mini dustpan. Kitty poops stop smelling pretty quickly. Cat box odor is caused by the wet litter. I’m serious about being neurotic. You never change litter with clumping litter, and you add more litter. You can put the litter in a bag to clean the box, then just pour it back into the clean box. the trick is find mini dust pans without a rubber edge.

NOTE: Do not use the lid until your kitten is comfortable. Also, I do not use the door on the lid, you can just pull it off and put it back on at a later date, if you wish.

Litter

Litter Robot is another option. I have been breeding since 2005, and wish I had known about Litter Robot Sooner! I had never been interested in automatic litter boxes until Litter Robot. Not only is it an incredible time saver, but I consider it a health benefit. You do not have a cat stepping in their own waste and with multiple cats, they are not stepping in other's waste!!

I have one of my breeding boys and 3-4 girls using one litter robot. With that many cats, I empty it every day or 2. But it takes 2 minutes!

1) I pull out the drawer
2) pull out the bag (I use regular bags),
3) put in a new bag and
4) press reset. DONE.

Litter Robot has a 90 day Return Policy. I personally can't imagine why anyone who tries it would want to return it.

Is your new kitten scared?

Siberians often settle into their new home very quickly, to the amazement of the new family. However, it is best to set up a "safe room". Your kitten might be overwhelmed if they are allowed to explore the whole house right away. Often they need time to familiarize themselves with each room gradually.

Be sure the litter box, food, toys, bed, etc are in this room right next to the place they feel comfortable. It is common for your kitten not to eat or use the litter box the first day or so. Keep the door closed until the kitten feels safe in the room. Then if they want to explore the rest of the house, let them, but at their own pace. Don't force them from the room - let them do it by themselves. The reason for giving them a safe room is so that they’ll have a safe retreat if they get scared.

Try sitting or lying still and letting them come to you. Or sit still and try to play with a string or something that catches their attention until they come to you. Let them sniff you and get used to your scent - you could even put one of your t-shirts with your scent on it in their bed. It may help!

You could get some cat treats or fancy feast canned cat food and try hand-feeding them to gain trust. At least make sure they see that you’re the one who feeds them.

Be sure to pick them up several times a day and hold them in your lap. If you watched the video above, you know about the collar and leash. This way, you can take them to the living area to hold them in your lap, then return to their safe room without losing them under the furniture. Gently rub their head and cheeks and squiggly scratch down his back in the direction of his hair. All kittens love that. If you’re holding him in the safe room, don't let the kitten jump down. When they’re calm, put them down before they try to get down.

They love playing with toys and the laser light or a string (something they will not be able to resist). It may take that to get them to come to the food or treat.

Another idea is that once they’re comfortable in the safe room, you could provide hiding places for them around the house and leave the door to their room open at all times when they aren’t in there. Maybe a cardboard box in the living room, with one of the flaps down, and for the first few days as a safe place to get to know the room from. Before you know it, your kitten will be constantly underfoot and bugging you all the time!

Litter Box Problems

How to scratch out bad litter box behavior: 8 tips that can help improve your cat's bathroom etiquette

By Kim Campbell Thornton
MSNBC contributor
updated 6:35 a.m. PT, Mon., July. 23, 2007

When people think outside the box, it’s a good thing. When cats think outside the box, it’s not. The No. 1 behavior problem reported in cats is doing No. 1 and No. 2 outside the confines of their litter box. But your cat might not be simply rebelling. It might be trying to tell you in the clearest way it can that something is wrong.

Cats beat out your mother-in-law any day of the week when it comes to cleanliness. Their willingness and instinct to use a litter box even at an early age is one of the reasons they're so attractive as companions. So when they stop using the litter box, it’s because there’s something they don’t like about it.

Let’s run through the list of possibilities:

You changed litters because the new one was on sale.

Cats hate change. Once they’re used to a certain type of litter, they don’t want to try something new. It smells funny, it feels different beneath their paws or maybe it just doesn’t kick as well.

Cats tend to prefer clumping litter. Maybe the sandlike texture resonates with their heritage as desert animals. But whatever their favorite type is, they don’t want you to change it, no matter how much money you’re saving. If you really want to try a different brand, gradually mix it in with the regular litter over several weeks.

The other thing to remember is that individual cats may have different preferences, usually because they were raised on different types of litter. If you have more than one cat, you may need to provide a box for each with the preferred litter.

You’re using a scented litter.

Cats have an exquisitely keen sense of smell. What may smell perfumed to us may be sensory overload for a cat, says feline behaviorist Alice Moon-Fanelli, a clinical assistant professor at Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. Of course you want your house to smell nice, but it’s going to smell a lot nicer if your cat likes its box.

You’re not scooping the box often enough.

You flush every time you use the toilet, so why wouldn’t you scoop every time your cat uses the litter box? It doesn’t want to step into a filthy litter box any more than you want to use a dirty toilet.
“People think if they put four or five inches of litter in a box, they won’t have to clean it that often, and that’s asking for trouble,” says John C. Wright, a professor of psychology who teaches applied animal behavior at Mercer University in Macon, Ga. “Most cats will tolerate a clump or two, but a bit more than that and they may decide to go right next to the box. Other cats seem to be clean freaks. If they’ve peed or another cat has urinated in the box, they won’t enter the box at all.”

You’re not cleaning the box.

Beyond scooping the box, you need to clean it regularly. Plastic retains odors, so even if you scoop the box daily, it’s still going to get stinky after a while. Dump the litter and clean the box every week or two with warm water and a mild dishwashing detergent (no harsh-smelling chemicals.) Between cleanings, Moon-Fanelli recommends using Zero Odor litter spray, an odor neutralizer, every time you scoop. After a year, consider getting a new litter box.

Your cat doesn’t like the location of the box.

Cats have the same real-estate priorities as people: location, location, location. They don’t want the litter box anywhere near where they eat, they want it in a quiet area and they don’t want to be interrupted. Place it in a room away from the food bowl with easy access and few interruptions. Make sure it’s where no dogs or people are running in and out, no dryer buzzers are going off. Ideally, put it in a place near an escape, such as a door or a tall cat tree, so if something does scare them, they can exit.

You don’t have enough boxes.

The rule of paw is one box for every cat, plus one extra. This ensures that bully cats don’t guard a single box and prevent lower-ranking cats from using it. If you have a two-story house, place a box on each floor. This is essential for young kittens or aging cats who may not have the best physical control.

The box is too small.

Most cats prefer a large litter box. A typical litter box is fine for a kitten, but a 20-pound Maine Coon needs a larger box. If you are able look for one that’s one and a half times longer than the cat’s body length.

Many people prefer having a covered litter box, but cats who are being bullied by a cat or dog would probably like to be able to see if anything dangerous is approaching, like the dog or a bully cat. A lid blocks their view and inhibits their escape. It also concentrates the smell inside the box if it is not being kept clean.

Cats can’t tell us when they don’t feel good, so they have to show us.

If you’re doing everything recommended above and your cat goes outside the litter box, don’t assume it's being spiteful. It may have a painful bladder infection or some other problem that can be diagnosed by your veterinarian. If your cat has been declawed recently, it may be painful to dig in the litter. And if it’s old and arthritic, it may be having difficulty climbing in and out of the box. Consider making a cutout so your cat can easily enter and exit the box.

Kim Campbell Thornton is an award-winning author who has written many articles and more than a dozen books about dogs and cats. She belongs to the Dog Writers Association of America and is past president of the Cat Writers Association. She shares her home in California with two Cavalier King Charles spaniels and one African ringneck parakeet.

© 2008 MSNBC Interactive